Recall Training

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ScoobySnacks
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Recall Training

Post by ScoobySnacks » Sun May 27, 2012 9:31 pm

Hi All,

I am the proud owner of a lovely 18 month old tamaskan, a very kind natured dog who is generally well behaved but with an incredible desire to look everywhere but my self when off the lead. I am having great difficulty gaining a good recall command and struggling with what to try next as training on a long line seems to be having little affect. She will even ignore the other two dogs we have which return after one call (all be it they are far more food orientated). Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Any opinions on these PAC or electric collars? They are something i have always avoided and never had to use whilst training any previous pet however, my concern being a weak recall command when danger is present e.g a car

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arianwenarie
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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Sun May 27, 2012 11:08 pm

I personally don't like electric collars of any type. For my lab, I trained her that the horse clicky sound (clicker) means she'll get a yummy treat; tons of praise and lots of affection if she comes to me. I only use it as an emergency recall so that the sound doesn't become boring. Then again, I don't have a Tamaskan or any experience with northern breeds so I cant comment on what may work better with dogs who could care less about treats and praise over whatever's got their attention out in a field. Lol.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by JulieSmith » Mon May 28, 2012 12:28 am

First you need a treat that they will do back flips for, easier to find for some dogs than others :roll: Make yourself interesting, bounce up and down be excited :lol: try running the other way. Start all of these things with the dog very close to you so that they know that they mean that you want them close. I used a whistle as well that helped get attention.

I did buy an electric collar that give a jet of air if you press a button, the idea is to distract enough for you to get their attention, that did not work very well, but it did have another button that gives a positive noise that when you first put the collar on you press the button and treat so they know it means you are happy with them. I then used it that I would click if she looked at me when I shouted her name, then when she came running for her treat. Its still work in progress with Saga, she is fine if there is little or no distraction, but not so good if there is something more interesting than me :twisted: .

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Re: Recall Training

Post by TerriHolt » Mon May 28, 2012 7:59 am

i personally wouldn't use a shock collar... i'd want my dog to do as asked because he ways to, not because i electricute him. there is always the risk of malfunction which can have devastating, horrifically painful results.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Mon May 28, 2012 12:13 pm

TerriHolt wrote:i personally wouldn't use a shock collar... i'd want my dog to do as asked because he ways to, not because i electrocute him. there is always the risk of malfunction which can have devastating, horrifically painful results.
I agree with you on that one. Sometimes when stopping by a pet value store I hear customers asking my friend who runs the store for that stuff and the customers end up being asked plenty of questions BEFORE my buddy is willing to sell that to him always saying "I have it, but I don't recommend it". Often because most (not all) of the people coming in looking for those are the guys who know little about the risk and (based on conversations I've heard between them and my friend), pretty much just looking for a final solution to stop their "out of control" dogs from doing (a long list of stuff that they don't approve of)...
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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Mon May 28, 2012 4:10 pm

The manager at the pet store I used to work at would tell people the shock collars and "no bark" collars they had were very expensive to deter people from purchasing them. lol. 50% markup of the actual sale price. So, what was a $80 "no bark collar", was $120.

I have never seen one leave the shelf, but curiously enough, I've seen a bunch of returns... makes you wonder what happened. :roll:

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Tue May 29, 2012 2:58 am

arianwenarie wrote: I have never seen one leave the shelf, but curiously enough, I've seen a bunch of returns... makes you wonder what happened. :roll:
Yeah I can see a lot of dissatisfied faces :lol:
Shows what happen when people didn't know what they were doing until they realized that their improper use of these gadjets only got them further away from what they sought to accomplish. :roll:
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Booma » Tue May 29, 2012 11:21 pm

Try attaching a lead between your tam and one of your dogs that actually come back. Just watch the length so they don't get tangled.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Gaby » Tue May 29, 2012 11:40 pm

Some Tamaskans have a lot of hunting instinct, which can be quite difficult to handle. I have the same problem with my Tamaskan, so I know what you are going through. ;) But I'm progressing after the the visit of a dog behavioural specialist. It is difficult to give any advice from a computer screen, not knowing how you trained your dog and what the problem exactly is. ;) Training dogs is very complex and I think you have to see it and know a lot about dogs to give good advice. So, did you already contacted a behavioural specialist?

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Finn1 » Wed May 30, 2012 10:54 am

JulieSmith wrote:First you need a treat that they will do back flips for, easier to find for some dogs than others :roll: Make yourself interesting, bounce up and down be excited :lol: try running the other way. Start all of these things with the dog very close to you so that they know that they mean that you want them close. I used a whistle as well that helped get attention.
Any ideas on what sort of treats? Finn is not really motivated by food at the moment so we are struggling as to what to try him with that is going to get his attention. Even though he is so young he is fantastic at recall until (in true Tamaskan style I have discovered, I am sure he is just humouring me!)) something more interesting gets his attention.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by skyedream » Wed May 30, 2012 11:01 am

The treats that work for me are cheese, cooked chicken, boiled and baked liver and hot dogs. These work well but it still depends on the situation. I have a very food orientated dog but her recall is still sometimes lacking! I have also used a whistle and find it works quite well.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by JulieSmith » Wed May 30, 2012 2:52 pm

skyedream wrote:The treats that work for me are cheese, cooked chicken, boiled and baked liver and hot dogs. These work well but it still depends on the situation. I have a very food orientated dog but her recall is still sometimes lacking! I have also used a whistle and find it works quite well.
Same foods for Saga and she is not that food motivated, a whistle does help as well. Saga is fine until a distraction :roll: but then a lot of young dogs have the same problem and improve with age, so it may be more of an age thing and not just a Tam problem.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by issylupus » Wed May 30, 2012 3:05 pm

Shay has seriouse " selective deafness " when off lead, especially in the forrest.... but she will do almost anything for a carrot !!!
Tala just eat's :roll: , she dos'ent care what and is quite good on the recall.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Wed May 30, 2012 4:50 pm

issylupus wrote:Shay has seriouse " selective deafness "
So does her brother Zephyr... I don't allow him off lead anymore because he doesn't come back but runs out of sight.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Wed May 30, 2012 4:52 pm

AZDehlin wrote:
issylupus wrote:Shay has seriouse " selective deafness "
So does her brother Zephyr... I don't allow him off lead anymore because he doesn't come back but runs out of sight.
Might that due to having more husky influence...? Since they're Nanna x Jackal pups. (Just a theory. :P)

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Vajente » Wed May 30, 2012 5:03 pm

Ravi had a great recall but he has hit puberty so he is wearing the shockcollar now, he gets a treat everytime he comes back to me even if I didn't call him.
the shock collar isn't as bad as most people think it is if you know what you're doing. The fenches of my horses give a higher shock and the dogs hit the fench at least a couple times a year and they still don't fear it.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Wed May 30, 2012 5:06 pm

arianwenarie wrote:
AZDehlin wrote:
So does her brother Zephyr... I don't allow him off lead anymore because he doesn't come back but runs out of sight.
Might that due to having more husky influence...? Since they're Nanna x Jackal pups. (Just a theory. :P)
Thats my thinking but it could be his age partially.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by issylupus » Wed May 30, 2012 5:16 pm

AZDehlin wrote:
issylupus wrote:Shay has seriouse " selective deafness "
So does her brother Zephyr... I don't allow him off lead anymore because he doesn't come back but runs out of sight.
Shay wont run off and tend's to keep an eye on where I am, but if I call her to come back she pretend's not to hear me untill I bellow at her in my best dog voice !!!!, or she saulters back in her own sweet time.
Tala will turn on a sixpence and come back no problem.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by CSpiker86 » Wed May 30, 2012 5:34 pm

ya my Alucard I cannot have off leash either, I tried it but he has horrible recall and just runs out of sight :oops: gave me quite a scare the other day it happened.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Nino » Wed May 30, 2012 5:55 pm

Sølve will stay fairly near, rarely runn out of sight, but off leash is not something I practise a lot since she won't come when called
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Wed May 30, 2012 5:58 pm

CSpiker86 wrote:ya my Alucard I cannot have off leash either, I tried it but he has horrible recall and just runs out of sight :oops: gave me quite a scare the other day it happened.
Did you try offering fresh treats?
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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Wed May 30, 2012 6:07 pm

fangjingtuanlucas wrote:
CSpiker86 wrote:ya my Alucard I cannot have off leash either, I tried it but he has horrible recall and just runs out of sight :oops: gave me quite a scare the other day it happened.
Did you try offering fresh treats?
Zephyr did this around christmas time and lost his privileges... Not even fresh Turkey would bring him back.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Vajente » Wed May 30, 2012 6:19 pm

Ravi only runs out of sight when he spots something, he will come back when he figures out nobody followed him :lol:
he mostly behaves the same as Shay

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Wed May 30, 2012 6:22 pm

Vajente wrote:Ravi only runs out of sight when he spots something, he will come back when he figures out nobody followed him :lol:
he mostly behaves the same as Shay
I guess Ravi must have assumed that you would chase him down so he ran and then looked back and was like "oh crap". Some dogs are like little kids, they try to get away from the adult by running but as soon as the kid looks back and realizes that their parent did not run after them they come back immediately. :lol:
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Vajente » Wed May 30, 2012 6:30 pm

he is more focussed on were my GSD is then were I am

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Re: Recall Training

Post by skyedream » Thu May 31, 2012 9:11 am

I don't like throwing balls for Maya because of her bad legs but I've got her to the point that if I say "ready..." in an excited voice and make out as if to throw a ball then she will come running over to me, almost no matter what. I rarely use this though because I don't want the efficacy to wear off when she realises I'm not going to throw the ball!
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Re: Recall Training

Post by JulieSmith » Thu May 31, 2012 12:42 pm

skyedream wrote:I don't like throwing balls for Maya because of her bad legs but I've got her to the point that if I say "ready..." in an excited voice and make out as if to throw a ball then she will come running over to me, almost no matter what. I rarely use this though because I don't want the efficacy to wear off when she realises I'm not going to throw the ball!
You could throw it a very short distance occasionally just to keep her interested, or throw it at her so she catches it, but does not have to run to get it, but still gets a game from you.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Gaby » Thu May 31, 2012 4:13 pm

AZDehlin wrote:
fangjingtuanlucas wrote:
CSpiker86 wrote:ya my Alucard I cannot have off leash either, I tried it but he has horrible recall and just runs out of sight :oops: gave me quite a scare the other day it happened.
Did you try offering fresh treats?
Zephyr did this around christmas time and lost his privileges... Not even fresh Turkey would bring him back.
Same with Mila, she isn't very food orientated either and takes off is she spots or smells something. I think that happens once a week. She has a lot of husky blood in her from Dingo. She does stick around very well normally and when she is out of sight she is only gone for a few seconds. But if that few seconds mean that she is crossing a road to chase a cat she could very well end up dead of course. I only let her off leash in safe area's. I continue the training and hope it will get better when she gets older. If not, I might have to start using an E-collar too, even though I don't like those. But I don't want her on the leash all the time, she will get crazy I think and bursting with energy.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Gaby » Thu May 31, 2012 4:18 pm

It does look though that much Tams have difficulties with going on off leash walks. I did not expected that, regarding to the information you can find on the internet about the Tamaskan. I costs me so much more training than I expected with Mila too. Hope that it also has to do with the younger dogs and that it will go better when they get older. Most dogs in this topic are still quite young I believe.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by issylupus » Thu May 31, 2012 5:39 pm

When Shay was wee ('er) I would let her off the lead and if she ran off too far, I would hide and wait for her to find me. Then she got a treat.(the first few times I did it she screamed her head off) I would also turn round and start walking the other way, she would look up and come racing back, so she got a treat. EACH and EVERY time she comes near me, I would offer a treat. even now, on every walk I will hide or turn around and walk off. So she has learned right from the start to keep an eye on where I am and she never run's on too far. I alway's head off for our walks with my pocket's bulging with treats and they will be empty by the time we get home.( her daily food intake is made up of about 1/4 by treats) Shay's problem is her stubboness !!! but wether that is a Tamaskan thing or just her personality ???? I don't know. But I dont care, I love her regardless......
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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Thu May 31, 2012 5:53 pm

Gaby wrote:
AZDehlin wrote: Zephyr did this around christmas time and lost his privileges... Not even fresh Turkey would bring him back.
I only let her off leash in safe area's. I continue the training and hope it will get better when she gets older. If not, I might have to start using an E-collar too, even though I don't like those. But I don't want her on the leash all the time, she will get crazy I think and bursting with energy.
There is no safe place in my area, if it's not roads and cars its hunters... and if it isn't those two there is a high population of black bear, wolves, coyotes, moose, elk, and deer and Zephyr's desire to chase many of those animals could injure or kill him. I have even had a black bear in my back yard. If Zephyr doesn't improve with a trainer after this teenage stage he is going through, I fear I may have to use and e-collar as well because I don't want to keep him confined to a lead his whole life.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by TParham86 » Thu May 31, 2012 9:25 pm

Mona Lisa does pretty well with recall and running off leash. I started training her when she was about 12 weeks because they already have that puppy instinct to follow and be all under foot. Whenever we went out and she'd run around I would call her back and reward her with a treat. Now that she's a year old she tends to roam farther but will always keep me in her sight. If I hide somewhere she'll come and find me, I can’t turn around and walk the other way though because sometimes she won’t follow, she chases things like rabbits, lizards etc but she hasn’t gotten too far out of my sight (yet). She usually comes back when I call and of course I reward her with a treat.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by claireyclaire » Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:21 am

I have 2 tams, they are 3.5 and 2.5 yrs old, they have both been to dog training from 11 weeks old. They both have excellent recall, it takes time, patience and consistency. If you put the work in you generally reap the rewards. I think it does help that they are very food orientated.

I have two commands one is 'here' which means I would quite like you to check in and you'll get a treat, but I'm not actually that bothered! And 'what's this' which means come here now and you will get a massive fuss and a yummy treat which is only ever given for a 'what's this'.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by CSpiker86 » Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:58 pm

AZDehlin wrote:
fangjingtuanlucas wrote:
CSpiker86 wrote:ya my Alucard I cannot have off leash either, I tried it but he has horrible recall and just runs out of sight :oops: gave me quite a scare the other day it happened.
Did you try offering fresh treats?
Zephyr did this around christmas time and lost his privileges... Not even fresh Turkey would bring him back.

:lol: well Alucard is like his brother because fresh treats dont bring him back either, he has lost all off leash privilages.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Kootenaywolf » Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:16 pm

I have two suggestions, just thought I'd put them out there.

One thing I have started training recently is a "here" command that means the dog should come and touch my hand (with their nose). Having the physical act of touching the hand really seems to encourage a very quick response. I taught this with a clicker, to begin with offer your hand, click and treat if they touch it (or begin with clicking/treating for even moving nearer to your hand and build up to them touching it if you need to). Once they are consistantly touching your hand, add in the command - in my case, "here". Then slowly build up the distance, calling them from another room in the house etc. Of course you can also use a crisp "yes" or whatever you choose instead of a clicker. This is my "informal" recall that I use with my dogs when out and about, along with their name.

And for those of you who are considering having to use an e-collar, have you tried/would you consider another type of correction first? I know a lot of people disagree with any correction in training but I think in a situation like this it does have it's place. What I have done with my older dog is train an emergency "stop" command, in this case the command is "HEY!". Start out in an area with very little distraction, even in your house, with the dog on a longrope (but have the longrope dragging on the ground, not in your hands). Wait for them to turn/move away from you, but don't let them get to far away. The first time you really want to make so much noise that there is almost no chance the dog will ignore you. Shout "HEY", stomp your foot, clap your hands. As soon as the dog stops and looks back, huuuuuuge praise, encourage them back, have a big party, give them yummy treats, etc etc. Keep practicing this, and slowly build up the distraction. If the dog doesn't respond, pick up the longrope, give a quick correction (a pop on the leash), and drop the rope again. It is important that you drop the rope after the correction, as you don't want the dog to make the connection that when the rope is in your hands, they have to obey, but not if it's on the ground. This will make it easier to transfer the command to offleash. If you've had to make a correction, IMMEDIATELY repeat the situation that caused it, so whatever was distracting the dog, repeat that, and get a success! Build up the distance the dog gets from you, the speed they are going (start at walk, then trot, then canter), and the distractions. Eventually get to the point where they will stop even when being distracted by someone running with smelly treats/toys etc, or a dog running by. If possible practice with their biggest distraction, deer or other wildlife etc (though this can be hard as the wildlife isn't always so cooperative!). Once the dog is totally reliable with the longrope, start practicing with them just dragging their regular leash, but make sure you start out in the house again, with minimal distraction, then move to a fenced in area. Eventually use just a short rope (a little 4 inch or so tab made of the same material as the longrope), this way they can still smell the rope and feel something clipped to their collar and it works quite well as a "mental" leash. Again, make sure you REALLY proof this in a controlled environment before testing them offleash out in the open! This command doesn't really mean "come", it just means stop, but usually the dog will want to come back in to get treats and loving, so make sure that you start praising the INSTANT the dog stops, don't wait for them to get back to you.

I hope that kind of made sense, I'm not very good at typing out good explanations! The "hey" command has worked very well for my dog, he used to really love chasing deer, but now he will stop mid run if I shout hey. I know some people are against any correction, but I think if you are considering using an E-collar then it might be worth trying this sort of thing first. I'm all for positive training, and it's very important that the dog gets delicious treats and tons of praise if they do stop, but I do think in some situations there will ALWAYS be something more interesting than the food you have, and for some dogs that is more frequent than others...and for those dogs there might need to be some sort of correction/consequence for ignoring a command, particularly a command that could save their life if they were about to chase a cat across a road and get hit by a car.

Just my two cents :)

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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:25 pm

Kootenaywolf wrote:I have two suggestions, just thought I'd put them out there.

One thing I have started training recently is a "here" command that means the dog should come and touch my hand (with their nose). Having the physical act of touching the hand really seems to encourage a very quick response. I taught this with a clicker, to begin with offer your hand, click and treat if they touch it (or begin with clicking/treating for even moving nearer to your hand and build up to them touching it if you need to). Once they are consistantly touching your hand, add in the command - in my case, "here". Then slowly build up the distance, calling them from another room in the house etc. Of course you can also use a crisp "yes" or whatever you choose instead of a clicker. This is my "informal" recall that I use with my dogs when out and about, along with their name.

And for those of you who are considering having to use an e-collar, have you tried/would you consider another type of correction first? I know a lot of people disagree with any correction in training but I think in a situation like this it does have it's place. What I have done with my older dog is train an emergency "stop" command, in this case the command is "HEY!". Start out in an area with very little distraction, even in your house, with the dog on a longrope (but have the longrope dragging on the ground, not in your hands). Wait for them to turn/move away from you, but don't let them get to far away. The first time you really want to make so much noise that there is almost no chance the dog will ignore you. Shout "HEY", stomp your foot, clap your hands. As soon as the dog stops and looks back, huuuuuuge praise, encourage them back, have a big party, give them yummy treats, etc etc. Keep practicing this, and slowly build up the distraction. If the dog doesn't respond, pick up the longrope, give a quick correction (a pop on the leash), and drop the rope again. It is important that you drop the rope after the correction, as you don't want the dog to make the connection that when the rope is in your hands, they have to obey, but not if it's on the ground. This will make it easier to transfer the command to offleash. If you've had to make a correction, IMMEDIATELY repeat the situation that caused it, so whatever was distracting the dog, repeat that, and get a success! Build up the distance the dog gets from you, the speed they are going (start at walk, then trot, then canter), and the distractions. Eventually get to the point where they will stop even when being distracted by someone running with smelly treats/toys etc, or a dog running by. If possible practice with their biggest distraction, deer or other wildlife etc (though this can be hard as the wildlife isn't always so cooperative!). Once the dog is totally reliable with the longrope, start practicing with them just dragging their regular leash, but make sure you start out in the house again, with minimal distraction, then move to a fenced in area. Eventually use just a short rope (a little 4 inch or so tab made of the same material as the longrope), this way they can still smell the rope and feel something clipped to their collar and it works quite well as a "mental" leash. Again, make sure you REALLY proof this in a controlled environment before testing them offleash out in the open! This command doesn't really mean "come", it just means stop, but usually the dog will want to come back in to get treats and loving, so make sure that you start praising the INSTANT the dog stops, don't wait for them to get back to you.

I hope that kind of made sense, I'm not very good at typing out good explanations! The "hey" command has worked very well for my dog, he used to really love chasing deer, but now he will stop mid run if I shout hey. I know some people are against any correction, but I think if you are considering using an E-collar then it might be worth trying this sort of thing first. I'm all for positive training, and it's very important that the dog gets delicious treats and tons of praise if they do stop, but I do think in some situations there will ALWAYS be something more interesting than the food you have, and for some dogs that is more frequent than others...and for those dogs there might need to be some sort of correction/consequence for ignoring a command, particularly a command that could save their life if they were about to chase a cat across a road and get hit by a car.

Just my two cents :)
Excellent post. I have taught my dog these two commands (different words), but use them in a different scenario...sort of. The "here" command you described is what my dog knows as "touch", but it's not used for recall...more so for getting her over any irrational fear of certain objects/people she may show. I will try to use it out-of-sight to see what happens - it'll be fun. :D

The "HEY!" command you described is quite the same to what my dog knows as "stop" - (most of the time) it stops her in mid-chase when her prey drive is engaged. I combine it with recall on a long-line...turn on her prey drive with whatever distraction there may be (parks work very well for this) and yell "stop!" in a very excited tone of voice and then when she looks at me, I tell her "come back!" and start praising verbally and get even more excited and animated. Usually, she comes back...we're still working on that. lol. So it's almost like two commands when I want her to recall to me when she's in mid-chase: "stop! (yes! praise if she stops), come back!"

I think the only reason why the "stop" command really works is because it's a fun game to the dog...well, it's supposed to be even more fun than whatever the heck they want to chase. lol. Amp up the "bait" slowly...start with a pile of yummy treats on the floor just out of reach from the leash, then go to their favorite toy, human food, etc - because they won't get to it anyway. When the dog consistently comes back on lead with the various baits you can use at home, move to the outside environment (more distractions), once that's done, do away with the bait you supply and go look for bait (go to park with squirrel-filled trees). ;)

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Re: Recall Training

Post by TeresaC » Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:20 am

Remember that the key to successful recalls is the ability to get your dog's attention at any time. If you can't get your dog's attention, you won't have a solid recall. One of the very first things we teach is the Name Game. You say your dog's name and when they look at you, they get a "good dog" and a treat. Begin in a quiet place so this can be successful. Then work your way through different levels of distratiions. Maybe other people around, other dogs around, children playing, squirrels running around, etc.

The key to success is to never repeat the dog's name. If your dog doesn't respond, use smooching noises, clapping or something else to get his or her attention. But NEVER their name again. You never want to have to say "Fido, Fido, Fido, Fido" as your dog's name.

If you can't get your dog to respond to his name next to you, you will not get a recall. This week we worked on the name game everytime we saw a rabbit or squirrel. At the same time you can begin working on recalls with the same types of distractions. Work from no distraction, to moderate distractins to heavy distraction. Remember you must know how to add and subtract before you can do algebra. You need algebra before calculus. Don't ask your dog to do PhD work when he is only in middle school :D

If your dog is loose, make sure to not chase your dog. Run the other way. Clap and make it fun. Make your dog want to be with you because you are more fun than anything else. I once threw myself on the ground and rolled around and laughed like a mad-woman. Made the dog come back :lol:

As for treats, Dylan doesn't like food. The one thing I found he cannot resist is lamb lung. Gross but oh so tasty!!
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tatzel » Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:35 pm

TeresaC wrote:I once threw myself on the ground and rolled around and laughed like a mad-woman. Made the dog come back :lol:
Hahah, I really like that suggestion, and it's so true! If you makea spectacle out of yourself, your dog's much more likely to come back to you.
I also heard that crouching or lying down flat makes you appear much further away for your dog, so they will come rushing to catch up.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Nino » Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:13 pm

My mom (who takes care of Sølve atm.) will sit down and just ignore Sølve, when she get curious enough she will come..
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:43 pm

Nino wrote:My mom (who takes care of Sølve atm.) will sit down and just ignore Sølve, when she get curious enough she will come..
If only you had the time and money to bring your dogs here. I'd love to meet them ;)
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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:21 pm

TeresaC wrote:Remember that the key to successful recalls is the ability to get your dog's attention at any time. If you can't get your dog's attention, you won't have a solid recall. One of the very first things we teach is the Name Game. You say your dog's name and when they look at you, they get a "good dog" and a treat. Begin in a quiet place so this can be successful. Then work your way through different levels of distratiions. Maybe other people around, other dogs around, children playing, squirrels running around, etc.

The key to success is to never repeat the dog's name. If your dog doesn't respond, use smooching noises, clapping or something else to get his or her attention. But NEVER their name again. You never want to have to say "Fido, Fido, Fido, Fido" as your dog's name.

If you can't get your dog to respond to his name next to you, you will not get a recall. This week we worked on the name game everytime we saw a rabbit or squirrel. At the same time you can begin working on recalls with the same types of distractions. Work from no distraction, to moderate distractins to heavy distraction. Remember you must know how to add and subtract before you can do algebra. You need algebra before calculus. Don't ask your dog to do PhD work when he is only in middle school :D

If your dog is loose, make sure to not chase your dog. Run the other way. Clap and make it fun. Make your dog want to be with you because you are more fun than anything else. I once threw myself on the ground and rolled around and laughed like a mad-woman. Made the dog come back :lol:

As for treats, Dylan doesn't like food. The one thing I found he cannot resist is lamb lung. Gross but oh so tasty!!
I used the name game, as well as the watch me command....doesn't work outside of the house though. As soon as I get Zephyr outside it's like he looses his hearing though :lol: :lol: Bugs, birds, and little furry creatures all over my yard are far more interesting. So the work continues.

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Re: Recall Training

Post by Hawthorne » Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:22 pm

Dogs are not good generalizers. This means that just because they know and will do a command in your house, they won't 'know' the command in your yard. Once a dog masters a command in your house, move out to the yard. Once the dog masters the command in the yard, move to the front yard, and then practice the command on walks, and then try in a parking lot away from the entrance to a grocery store, then inside a bank (if they allow dogs), then outside the pet store, then inside the pet store. Each time, make sure the dog masters the command in each new location.
From there, build up distractions. Try practicing commands (sit, down) when there's something really interesting to the dog going on (like the blasted squirrels running around on the telephone wires!). Our dog's aren't this far yet. Those squirrels get them every time. I've started with the name game when we see squirrels--and 'leave it' too. Raven is learning this more quickly than anyone. :D
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Tiantai » Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:42 pm

Hawthorne wrote:Dogs are not good generalizers. This means that just because they know and will do a command in your house, they won't 'know' the command in your yard. Once a dog masters a command in your house, move out to the yard. Once the dog masters the command in the yard, move to the front yard, and then practice the command on walks, and then try in a parking lot away from the entrance to a grocery store, then inside a bank (if they allow dogs), then outside the pet store, then inside the pet store. Each time, make sure the dog masters the command in each new location.
I will have to partially disagree with you on that part. My Buddy was an excellent generalizer. I taught him many of the basic commands like beg and lie down and he remembered them everwhere else without the need to reinforce them in the new location. I think some dogs are less narrow than others but certainly not all dogs make bad generalizers. Micky was also a good generalizer as well. In my personal opinion, because every dog is different, some will pick up commands faster and learn to react to a familliar word faster than another while others require an appropriate environment to get comfortable with before they can follow it fully understood.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:10 pm

fangjingtuanlucas wrote:
Hawthorne wrote:Dogs are not good generalizers. This means that just because they know and will do a command in your house, they won't 'know' the command in your yard. Once a dog masters a command in your house, move out to the yard. Once the dog masters the command in the yard, move to the front yard, and then practice the command on walks, and then try in a parking lot away from the entrance to a grocery store, then inside a bank (if they allow dogs), then outside the pet store, then inside the pet store. Each time, make sure the dog masters the command in each new location.
I will have to partially disagree with you on that part. My Buddy was an excellent generalizer. I taught him many of the basic commands like beg and lie down and he remembered them everwhere else without the need to reinforce them in the new location. I think some dogs are less narrow than others but certainly not all dogs make bad generalizers. Micky was also a good generalizer as well. In my personal opinion, because every dog is different, some will pick up commands faster and learn to react to a familliar word faster than another while others require an appropriate environment to get comfortable with before they can follow it fully understood.
Lucas, I'm pretty sure Tracy was speaking of the average dog. There will always be the exception - I think you just got lucky with 2 exceptions. lol! I work with dogs every day in a training facility (mellow, chill dogs to dogs that are confident enough to kill a human/animal) and I will say that 99% of these dogs are not good generalizers.

I've probably only seen one dog who was able to learn "sit", "wait" and the basic concept of "stay" and then do a high distraction "stay" in her own home - the distractions were high value treats (boiled beef hearts. ew) being thrown AT her while she was in a "sit/stay". We affectionately call her 'Baby Genius'. ;)

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Re: Recall Training

Post by TerriHolt » Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:15 pm

I'm sure she generally meant average dog lucas ;)

I taught Sam recall in the house and he was really good at recall (98.99% trust worthy, flapping birds let him down on the rest) everywhere else without the learning in other places... until he hit the 6 month old (or there about) mark and then everything he learned, even using it on a 3/4 times a day, daily basis, went out the window and sniffing smells and foaming at the mouth became much more interesting until i no longer existed out side... We are still practicing it but the only place he will recall is in an area dogs arn't allowed (we sneaked into school grounds) and there are no lady smells... Then we get to somewhere near acceptable...

Edit: you posted 1st arianwenarie :lol: It used to tell me if there were new posts made while rambling :?
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Re: Recall Training

Post by arianwenarie » Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:19 pm

Though my dog is not a Tam, I must say that probably the only reason why she likely doesn't have good recall is because of me...I don't trust her off-leash. I'm one of those worry-wart parents who wants to wrap their kid in a bubble. LOL.

That one time that I did take her to a dog park (and the last time), she had excellent recall with dogs and people (and kids, who aren't allowed per park rules) everywhere, but that's in a secured area (double fenced and all gates are double gated). I've never tried in a unsecure area. Perhaps it's because when she was a door bolt-er, I could never get her to recall....pfft. :P

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Re: Recall Training

Post by HiTenshi16 » Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:13 pm

arianwenarie wrote:I must say that probably the only reason why she likely doesn't have good recall is because of me...I don't trust her off-leash. I'm one of those worry-wart parents who wants to wrap their kid in a bubble. LOL.
I feel the same way about Ulric. There are too many distractions (stray cats and dogs), and roads where I live, and no places anywhere near where I can practice off-lead recall.
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Hawthorne » Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:32 pm

We are very lucky that my family has a cabin in a remote area. This is where we take our dogs off leash. I'd never consider taking our dogs for a walk around the neighborhood without a leash---that'd be a disaster.

Anyhow--where we practice off leash stuff is 17,000 acres of fields, woods and mountains. We usually don't see another soul while out hiking. It's paradise <3
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Re: Recall Training

Post by Czertice » Wed Jul 25, 2012 5:56 pm

We wanted to have as reliable recall as possible, so that our dog (not Tam) could be walked off-leash most of the time. As soon as we got Raksha home, we started calling, rewarding, repeating in various environments. The biggest distractions were other dogs and for some reason also babies in prams;] Her recall was already very good, but sometimes the lure was simply bigger than her obedience and desire of treat. For situations like this correction is useful IMO. We researched information about electric collars, and after careful consideration we used it with excellent results. Positive training is nice, but I think that some dogs will not be reliable unless you use some kind of corrections as well.

In our breed I know of people who cannot let their dog off-leash ever. I think it's sad. The rest achieve different degrees of reliability with positive training. Our breed has a tendency to be food-crazy, which helps immensely. But it gets really difficult once you have an adult dog for whom you are no longer the center of his universe and who doesn't care much for treats or praise. I know a friend who has a dog like that and I honestly don't know what would work for her dog;/
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Re: Recall Training

Post by AZDehlin » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:07 pm

Hawthorne wrote:We are very lucky that my family has a cabin in a remote area. This is where we take our dogs off leash. I'd never consider taking our dogs for a walk around the neighborhood without a leash---that'd be a disaster.

Anyhow--where we practice off leash stuff is 17,000 acres of fields, woods and mountains. We usually don't see another soul while out hiking. It's paradise <3
The only place I let Zephyr off lead is at my families cabin where we have 40 acres of our own and then that backs up to state land. He will stay close if my family is grilling on our deck but he does wonder and doesn't always come back and I have to run towards him and then get him to chase me back into camp.

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